Tre Bicchieri 2024: the best wines from Alto Adige awarded by Gambero Rosso

In the ever-evolving world of wine, where nothing remains the same from one year to the next, Bolzano’s producers stand out for their acute awareness as they confront new challenges. These challenges not only revolve around climate change or the sudden volatility of markets but most importantly, they center on managing the terrain, harnessing its potential, and transitioning from a production approach that caters to consumer demand to one that values the link between the many grape varietals grown and the plots best suited to them.

This renewed awareness has led smaller producers to specialize based on the disposition of their vineyards, a trend clearly reflected by urban wineries and the distant estates of the Eisack Valley. Similarly, cooperatives now reserve the varietals most adapted to their territory for their best wines. Thus, we see Girlan specializing in pinot noir, Tramin focusing on gewürztraminer and chardonnay, and Kurtatsch honing in on gewürztraminer and Bordeaux varietals. The land then plays its part, allowing vineyards to flourish from the valley floors at 220 meters to elevations surpassing 1000 meters in the higher regions. Hence we find areas like Oltradige, where many grape varieties find a premium habitat, blessed as they are with sun-drenched warm days followed by cool, breezy nights. Aided by a positive series of vintages (2020, 2021, and 2022), the entire province is performing well, with the crisp and fragrant whites of the Eisack and Vinschgau valleys resonating with the rich Lagreins of Bolzano.

Oltradige and Bassa Atesina spotlight pinot bianco, chardonnay, and sauvignon, making for wines that exude depth, elegance, and finesse. Meanwhile, Kettmeier once again proves that Alto Adige can also be a land of sparkling wines. Schiava, despite smaller amounts being cultivated year after year, is aptly represented in Santa Maddalena and Lago di Caldaro, the former leaning into richness and maturity, and the latter emphasizing finesse and agility.

A special note for pinot nero. In its best versions (and there are many) it has moved away from a fruity and approachable style to better express a deeper connection to its origins and the nuances the land bestows.